Thursday, September 13, 2012

Xeriscaping



Most landscaping will not require permitting, with the exception of adding/removing trees. However, many neighborhoods are now requesting that you consider xeriscaping if you are going to change your landscaping. Xeriscaping requires less fertilizer, less water, and is more environmentally friendly, not to mention friendlier on your wallet!

Seven Principles of Xeriscaping:
Planning and Design - Have a Plan.
Take a look at your garden’s topography, exposure and soil. Don’t try to fight your site. Create planting zones and group your plants by their needs. For example, groups tough, drought tolerant plants in areas exposed to full day sun, give less tolerant plants some partial shade and keep the more delicate or demanding plants for a spot near your water source.
Choose Appropriate Plant MaterialYou may choose to incorporate a few plants that will need to be coddled, but for the most part, selecting plants that thrive in your area during low water conditions will give you the best results. This often includes native plants that we so often take for granted. The choice of plants will vary by region, even within a single yard. You may also be surprised to see how many plants are considered xeric, once they have established themselves and when properly cared for.
Soil ImprovementThe old adage that if you take care of the soil, the soil will take care of the plants, is very true here. The key, as always, is incorporating generous amounts of organic matter. This will improve water penetration and retention in any type of soil. Rich, loose, water holding soil will encourage good root development and lessen the plant’s need for supplemental water. It is best to amend your soil before planting and to regularly use organic mulch.
MulchMulching is a naturally occurring process, but as gardeners we tend to want things tidy and we rake away all the leaves and debris that coat and decay into the soil. So we have to bring in more aesthetically pleasing mulch, such as shredded bark and compost.
However it gets there, mulch adds a great deal to your garden. It moderates soil temperature, holds moisture, slows erosion and suppresses weeds that would compete with your plants for food and water. It also gradually decomposes and feeds the soil. Apply about 4 inches of mulch at the initial planting and check it each season to see if it needs to be replenished.
Practical and Appropriate Turf AreasMost of us still want some areas of lawn in our landscape and many of us want way too much lawn. Think about how much water, fertilizer and gasoline it takes to keep your lawn green throughout the summer.
Where to place the lawn should be part of your initial design plan, taking into consideration what you plan to use your lawn for. If you are using grass as a ground cover, there are other options that would be less labor and water intensive. Choose an appropriate grass seed for the lawn’s exposure.
Efficient WateringNot all plants need the same amount of water and those needs may change with the seasons. If you have followed the steps above, you have your plants grouped by their water needs, including your lawn, and can water only where it’s needed.
Drip irrigation systems are often recommended for efficient watering. These systems allow you to control when and how much water a plant gets and to direct the water only to the plants that need it.
Base your watering schedule on the needs of the plants and not on an arbitrary schedule. All plants will require more supplemental watering for the first year or two that they are becoming established. However after they have acclimated and developed a good root system, supplemental watering should become much less frequent.
Appropriate MaintenanceYes, even a xeriscape garden will require some maintenance. Watering, weeding, pruning, deadheading and sensible pest management will all factor into the quality of your garden.

Friday, August 31, 2012

Needs Permitting



The following common alterations or improvements require a building permit:
  • Making a structural addition
  • Installing a new roof
  • Blocking off or adding a door or window
  • Adding or relocating electrical outlets
  • Adding or relocating plumbing fixtures (sinks, toilets, showers)
  • Converting a garage or storage area to an air conditioned occupied space
  • Installing or replacing an air conditioning system

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Hurricane Safe


We’re not as safe as we can be from hurricanes

 

WWW.FLASH.ORG

Twenty years ago, Hurricane Andrew made landfall in South Florida in the middle of the night of Aug. 24. When residents from Key Largo to North Miami walked outside their homes the next morning, they gasped at a level of devastation that had never been seen before.
Much has changed since then in Florida and around the nation. We have made great progress in the past 20 years to strengthen our coastal areas against the unstoppable reality of hurricanes. But we cannot become complacent simply because time has allowed memories to fade.
Mitigating the damage of natural disasters and, in some cases, actually preventing damages, is a proven money-saver. A 2005 study by the National Institute of Building Sciences found that, on average, a dollar spent by FEMA on hazard mitigation saves the nation $4 in future benefits. We believe the savings for property owners are even greater.
There are three fundamental building blocks to improved mitigation:
•  Stronger building codes. The creation of the International Code Council in 1994 gave us a single entity to draft model building codes that can be, and are, used as guidelines for local codes worldwide. Stronger building codes help drive the creation, and adoption, of better building products and practices. Alabama, for instance, this year adopted its first-ever statewide residential code.
Many hurricane-exposed states, unfortunately, still are lagging. Alarmingly, there have been efforts to weaken building codes in some states.
An Insurance Institute for Business and Home Safety (IBHS) study last December found that, on a 100-point scale, only seven of 18 coastal states scored higher than 80 points when ranked for “strong statewide residential building codes and comprehensive regulatory processes for the building code officials, contractors, and subcontractors, who translate building code requirements into actual homes.” Bottom of the pack? Mississippi, Delaware and Texas.
•  Incentives, both public and private. Financial incentives work wonders in improving mitigation and reducing losses. Florida, for instance, has the nation’s most robust system of insurance incentives. Residents are supposed to receive a significant discount off of hurricane insurance if their homes were built after 2002 under the newer Florida Building Code.
Older homes also can get credits for mitigation features ranging from storm shutters, water barriers and impact doors and windows. Insurers are required by law to provide mitigation incentives in Florida, Louisiana and Maryland. Incentives are voluntarily offered in Alabama, Mississippi, New Jersey, North Carolina, Rhode Island and South Carolina.
But we need more incentives. Local governments should consider property-tax relief for homeowners who invest in mitigation. Governments also should waive taxes and fees on specific mitigation work, such as shutter installations. Sales-tax holidays could be implemented for all hurricane-protective devices. None of these efforts are particularly onerous, but provide the incentives to promote action.
•  Education about mitigation and prevention. Understanding the positive impact of mitigation and damage prevention remains the biggest challenge to our efforts. People lose their lives because they either don’t know or underestimate the dangers of natural disasters. While the media have done an exemplary job of providing useful tips in advance of storms, there is so much more to do. A troubling example: Nearly seven of 10 homeowners think masking tape on windows somehow will help prevent damage, according to a Harris Interactive survey this year. It doesn’t.
Massive losses to the insurance industry from Andrew, Katrina and other storms have resulted in more homeowners being forced to turn to government-backed “insurers of last resort’’ for coverage. That means we increasingly are placing these risks on our own pocketbooks.
Again, we have made great progress. But by no means are we as safe as we can be.
Leslie Chapman-Henderson is President and CEO of the Federal Alliance for Safe Homes (FLASH).

Source: Miami Herald

Read more here: http://www.miamiherald.com/2012/08/14/2951750/were-not-as-safe-as-we-can-be.html#storylink=cpy

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Building Code FAQ

The Florida Building Code can be a little tough to decode if you don't speak contractor. Here is the plain and simple translation of your most commonly asked questions from the source.

How often is the code updated?
Every 3 years.

Where does the code come from?
The Florida code is based on the International Building Code, or the "base code", and adapted for state-specific needs.

Can I read the code?
Yes. It is available here. You can even see previous versions at that site.

What requires a permit?
I talk about this all the time. Here's the official stance:

Any owner or authorized agent who intends to construct, enlarge, alter, repair, move, demolish, or change the occupancy of a building or structure, or to erect, install, enlarge, alter, repair, remove, convert or replace any impact resistant coverings, electrical, gas, mechanical or plumbing system, the installation of which is regulated by this code, or to cause any such work to be done, shall first make application to the building official and obtain the required permit.

Monday, July 30, 2012

Wall Removal


Gee, it might be nice to open up that space between the kitchen and dining room. You would just have to remove that pesky wall...

Long before you pick up a sledgehammer, consult with a contractor. The wall may be load-bearing - meaning it holds up your roof - or it may have items inside that are more delicately removed - like electrical cables or plumbing pipes. Prevent a major disaster by checking with a contractor before doing any wall removal.

The same goes for removing part of the wall, as in to make a window, bar, or pass-through from one room to another.

If the wall is merely cosmetic, it may not require a permit, but that will rarely be the case.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

Termites


The gulf coast of Florida is beginning to see summer swarms of termites due to a shortened winter and hotter springtime temperatures than is usual for the area. Luckily, Florida's building code requires standard termite protection for new construction which should make infestations less likely to occur and easier to exterminate when they do attempt to set in.

Source: Gulf Breeze News

Monday, June 4, 2012

Hurricane Season


Be prepared. Plywood is a last resort. For safety, you will need to cover your windows with hurricane shutters or replace your windows with hurricane-resistant glass.

Hurricane Shutters
Shutters do require a permit. Permits are used to ensure that your materials are going to stand up to the winds and protect your home. Your homeowner's association may have restrictions to the types of panels you can use. Check with them before purchasing materials. They may also require you to paint your shutters to match your home. The most common shutters are made from aluminum, but there are other materials on the market, including some which are clear.

Hurricane-Resistant Glass
This glass is thick, much like bullet-proof glass, and will require a permit before installation. Many companies are offering this as an alternative to putting shutters up and down each storm season. This can be a time- and money-saver, especially for people who are not able-bodied, such as the elderly who might otherwise have to hire someone to help them protect their home. Also, the glass allows the homeowner to watch the storm in progress and will not darken the house.